Reference · A–Z
The builder’s glossary
The whole hobby vocabulary, defined the way a friend at the club table would explain it — with the one nuance insiders actually nitpick.
Kits & Grades
- Sprue
- The plastic frame a kit’s parts ship attached to.
- Runner
- One lettered channel of the sprue — “part C-14” lives on runner C.
- Gate
- The thin neck connecting a part to the runner — where you cut.
- Snap-Fit
- Kits that assemble with friction pegs — no glue required.
- Polycap
- The soft rubbery sleeve inside a joint that grips the peg.
- Inner Frame
- The articulated skeleton under a higher-grade kit’s armor.
- Grade
- A kit’s engineering tier — from entry snap-fits to flagship builds.
- Scale Notation
- 1/144, 1/100, 1/60 — the fraction between model and machine.
Nippers & Cutting Tools
- Nub
- The stub of gate left on a part after the first cut.
- Nub Mark
- The scar a nub leaves behind — the thing sanding erases.
- Stress Whitening
- The pale bloom where plastic was pinched or bent — a bad cut’s signature.
- Nipper
- The side-cutting pliers that free parts from the runner.
- Flush Cut
- The close second cut that takes the nub level with the surface.
- Two-Stage Cutting
- Cut proud of the part, then flush-cut the stub — two snips, zero stress marks.
Sanding & Surface Prep
- Seam Line
- The visible join where two glued or snapped halves meet.
- Seam Removal
- Cement the join, let it cure, sand it invisible.
Panel Lining & Decals
- Panel Line
- The recessed groove molded into a surface to suggest separate panels.
- Panel Line Accent Color
- Thin enamel wash that wicks along recessed lines by capillary action.
- Decal
- A printed marking film applied to a build — numbers, warnings, insignia.
- Waterslide Decal
- Soak, slide, settle — the thinnest, most professional marking type.
- Dry Transfer
- Rub-on markings with no carrier film at all.
- Setting Solution
- The liquids that soften a waterslide so it hugs surface detail.
- Silvering
- The frosted air layer under a decal — and how to prevent it.
Weathering & Effects
- Pin Wash
- A targeted wash placed only into recesses, not over the whole surface.
Brush Painting
- Dry Brushing
- Wiping a nearly-paintless brush across edges to catch raised detail.
- Edge Highlighting
- Painting a fine bright line along raised edges to simulate light.
- Wet Palette
- Sponge + parchment membrane that keeps acrylics workable for days.
- Kolinsky Sable
- The premium natural brush hair that holds a needle point.
Paints & Primers
- Zenithal Priming
- Black base, white sprayed from above — a built-in lighting map.
- Primer (Surfacer)
- The grip-and-fill undercoat every painted build starts with.
- Thinning Ratio
- Paint-to-thinner mix — “skim milk” is the airbrush target.
- Speed / Contrast Paint
- One-coat paints that shade and color in a single pass.
- Lacquer / Acrylic / Enamel
- The three paint families — durability, smell, and safety trade-offs.
Top Coats & Finishing
- Top Coat
- The clear protective seal sprayed over a finished build.
- Flat / Matte Coat
- The non-shiny topcoat that makes plastic stop looking like a toy.
Airbrushes
- Dual-Action
- Trigger down for air, back for paint — two-axis control.
- Gravity Feed
- Paint cup on top — feeds by gravity, sprays at lower pressure.
- Siphon Feed
- Bottle under the body — big capacity, higher pressure needed.
- Nozzle Size
- The spray aperture in millimeters — 0.3 mm is the do-everything default.
- Tip Dry
- Paint drying on the needle tip mid-session — the spatter culprit.
Compressors & Air
- PSI
- Air pressure — miniatures and kits live in the 15–30 PSI band.
- Moisture Trap
- The bowl that catches water before it reaches your paint.